|
Brittany is a large peninsula in northwestern France,
bordered on the north by the English Channel and to the west by the Atlantic
Ocean. From the beginning of time, this terrain has stood firm against the
ravages of nature and history. Along the northern coast, the land is cut into
fjords, which the Bretons call abers. The powerful waves of the Atlantic crash
along Brittany’s southern beaches. “Fish speak Breton”, said the American
writer Jack Kerouac, whose ancestry was Breton.
|
|
Brittany is definitely a landscape forged by the sea. Certain older
citizens also know it as “the end of the earth” or Pen ar Bed in Breton. You
have to remember that the sea was a mysterious place for our ancestors, and that
this was the last piece of land before the great unknown. Populated by exiles
from Wales who fled the Anglo-Saxons, the coasts and forests of Brittany have
always kept their Celtic legends. The heart of Brittany is covered with the Brocéliande
forest, home of Merlin and the legend of Arthur.
Rich in local history, Brittany is proud of its ageless megaliths, its stone
houses with slate roofs, its medieval wayside crosses, its tiny chapels which
shelter the memory of numerous generations of sailors. We find at the heart of
these tiny villages a strong hint of how life was when Brittany was separated
from the rest of the country by impregnable forest, and the Bretons did not
speak any French.
Very close to their Welsh, Irish, and Cornwall cousins, the Bretons make the
distinction between their own character and that of the rest of France (more
Latin and German). Initially rather brusque, they open up as the conversation
progresses, and are in fact a very hospitable, cultured people. They are sailors
and farmers and have a long tradition of sea
salt gathering. The Breton language is a Celtic/Gaelic language, very
close to Gaul, and is avidly learned by younger generations today.
Brittany is known in France as a retreat from the tumult
of city life. The healing powers of the ocean are potent
here; dining on sea food and taking spa
treatments are popular pastimes both among visitors and residents.
|